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Peel the pears and cut off the bottoms so they can sit up when you plate them.Pour the wine into a large saucepan and set it over medium heat.Add the sugar and stir until it dissolves; continue to stir occasionally until the wine comes to a boil.Turn down the heat so that the wine simmers.Add the lemon zest, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg and finally the pears.Make sure the pears are submerged in the wine.Then reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer until the pears are very dark and tender when pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes.Carefully remove the pears from the liquid and let both the pears and the liquid cool.Once cool, the pears can be stored overnight in the cooking liquid; they will take on the most beautiful color and profound flavor.Serve the pears in a pool of their poaching liquid.
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